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Inspections & Packing Sellers

7/16/2017

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Moving clutter makes it nearly impossible for a
Home Inspector to do his job correctly.
It is in the Seller’s best interest to make sure the home is accessible for an inspection. If buyers cannot obtain a satisfactory inspection because of the clutter, then it may cost the seller a potential sale.
According to the Texas Real Estate Commission (TREC) an inspection addresses only those components and conditions that are present, visible, and accessible at the time of the inspection.
The inspector is not required to climb over obstacles, move furnishings or stored items.
The inspector is not required to turn on decommissioned equipment, systems, utility services.
 
The inspector needs access to:
·         Electrical Outlets/Plugs
·         Electrical panels
·         Windows & Doors
·         Appliances → Water Heaters, A/C Units (inside and out)
​                               →
Kitchen Appliances – ready to use
·         Attic Access
·         Under House Crawl Space
 
EXAMPLE: A water heater located in a closet should have clear access to be inspected. Water heaters in a garage should also have clear access.
Having items stored on top of or around the water heater can be hazardous as well as keep it from being accessible to an inspector or a plumber should it need repair.
 
If seller is packing and storing packed boxes in rooms, it is suggested to leave at least a 2 foot clearance around the edge of the room for inspecting.
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Just The House Facts Please…6 Things To Know.

10/2/2016

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Buying a Home is The Most Expensive Purchase Most People Will Ever Make.
 
Get The House Facts – Hire A Licensed Home Inspector.
  1.       ​What Is The Condition…The Home Inspection Report is a report about the condition of the home. Just like you would have a mechanic look at a used car Before you buy it, and tell you what is good or what potential repair issues you will be needing to have done in the near future, a home inspection is much the same.

  2.       A Very Small Expense…The cost of a home inspection is very small expense compared to the overall value of the home and can potentially save the buyer thousands of dollars. If a seller has a home inspection done prior to listing, then performing repairs or curing code violations can mean receiving closer to the asking price of the home.
  3.       Don’t Hire The Cheapest Inspector…While the State of Texas requires Home Inspectors to be licensed and perform an inspection based on minimum standards, hire a licensed professional that inspects over and above the minimum standards. (link: how to hire an inspector)
  4.       No Such thing as Passing or Failing…the inspection report is simply a tool that can save the buyer money on the home by negotiating a lower purchase price to allow for repairs that the buyer chooses to have completed. 
  5.       Nothing Has To Be Repaired…. not all the findings in a home inspection report have to be repaired or replaced. What is repaired is a decision the buyer must make. Some larger issues such as foundation repairs or roof replacement can make a difference in negotiating the purchase price. 
  6.       Hire Your Own Professionals…if the buyer chooses to have certain items repaired, it is in their best interest to hire their own professionals rather that rely on whether the seller is doing their own repairs and doing it correctly or hiring a fly by night repairman.

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Foundations and Routine Maintenance

9/4/2016

 

Keep your foundation protected with these tips from the Texas A&M AgriLife Water Education Network.

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As part of your homes routine monthly maintenance, be sure to inspect the perimeter of your home’s foundation especially during the long, hot dry summer.
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Soil Shrinks and pulls away from your home’s foundation when it’s dry. By planting around the foundation, you’ll keep the moisture level just right and the dirt exactly where it needs to be.

If you do not see a gap between the soil and foundation, your soil moisture is good. If you see a gap between the foundation and the soil, you need to water the ground around your foundation until the soil swells and closes the gap.

​Maintain a 2 to 4 inch layer of mulch under and around plants. Mulch will prevent evaporation of moisture form the soil and allow irrigation and rainfall to enter the soil more efficiently.

Do not pile up mulch onto the foundation. You always want to be able to check for soil separation and termite tunnels. You want to be able to see the foundation where it meets your siding or brick facing.
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​Set up a drip system or a soaker hose around the foundation to water plants and the soil.  Note that some cities allow foundation watering through drip irrigation even during water restrictions.

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​If you find a foundation crack, fill it with caulk or waterproofing sealant to avoid water accumulation under your home.

Check your sprinklers regularly for leaks, broken heads, and other maintenance to avoid costly water damage and potential flooding.
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Avoid overplanting around the foundation. You need to be able to see the foundation all around the house. Large plantings that touch the walls encourage wood rot and wood destroying insects to relocate into the walls.

7 Common Findings On Roofing Inspections

8/10/2016

 
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Shingles Should Not Lift At The Edge Like This.
​I routinely find mistakes in newly installed shingles,  both on  new  construction  and 
​re-roofed houses. Because of my roofing background, my knowledge of basic asphalt composition shingle installation may exceed the scope of what is needed for a typical home inspection.
Interestingly enough every package of roofing material is marked with installation instructions for the product, YET they are very often NOT followed.

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Roof Basics:
Roof Decking
Because the deck performance can have a strong effect on shingle performance, most shingle manufacturers require certain minimum decking standards. The deck must be structurally stable, solid, smooth and secured adequately to rafters or trusses.
Underlayment
Basically there are two types of shingle underlayment: water-resistant and waterproof. Shingle manufacturers recommend the use of underlayment except on roof-over installations.
Water-resistant shingle underlayment - Resistant is the key word. It is often referred to as roofing felt, tarpaper or asphalt felt. Sun and moisture degrade the material quickly, and then the nails penetrate the material. If the wind blows off a few shingles, it serves as a backup – making the difference between a few drips and a waterfall.
Waterproof shingle underlayment - Waterproof underlayments were designed to seal the roof and to prevent water from getting inside the building due to ice dams and/or wind driven rain. Unlike the standard felt underlayment, it is unaffected by moisture so it does not wrinkle.
Drip edge flashing
Though not used throughout the United States, drip edge flashing is often installed to prevent wind driven rain from getting under the underlayment and damaging the sheathing along the edges.
 
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Common findings found during an inspection:

  1.     Misaligned shingles – The mistake I see most often is shingles out of alignment, a sure sign of amateur workmanship. Looking at a 3-tab shingle roof, the cutouts (also known as slots or keyways) should be straight up and down, and the butted joints should be horizontally lined up.
         Excessive variance on either is a red flag to check carefully for other signs of poor
​         workmanship. But if everything else is correct, a roof with misaligned shingles will
​         probably shed water.

  1.     Incorrect starter course – The absence of or the incorrect installation of the   required starter course shingles is another common mistake, especially on re-roofed houses.

The bottom tabs are always cut off. By cutting off the bottom tabs, the self-sealing adhesive can be placed along the bottom of the overlying first course to help prevent blow off.
 
The use of a whole shingle makes that impossible, and also creates a slight hump under the bottom of the second course that could play a role in damming.
 
NOTE: You won’t have much luck trying to convince a roofing contractor with 30 years’ experience that his starter courses have been wrong, but it’s important to note if it does not comply with the manufacturer’s specifications, it could have an influence on the limited warranty, but it doesn’t void the warranty because shingles warranties are for product defects not installation error.​

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    3. Overhangs – Inadequate shingle overhang is an indication of amateur workmanship. Insufficient overhangs typically cause water damage to fascia and rake boards. Excessive overhang is also common.When shingles overhang too much, they are more likely to have wind up lift and to blow off. Also over time, the excessive shingle will curl over to create an unsightly view.

​    4. Improper Nailing – Most shingle manufacturers prefer nails to staples. Proper nail placement is critical in shingle performance. Incorrect nailing or lack of nails can result in shingle blow off and/or shingles slipping out of place.

​Additional common problems:
After the precursory inspection of the new roof, it’s time to check for a few more common problems that can be seen by the observant eye.

     5. Check for holes: On steep roofs, roofers will often install a toe board (2x4"nailed through shingles) to hold materials and/or roofers on the roof. After shingles are complete, the board is removed and the nail holes are either forgotten or caulked.

     6. Normal and Premature Decline: When inspecting older shingles, it can be difficult to distinguish between what is “normal for the age” decline and “premature” decline.
Research shows shingles rapidly age during the first years after installation, some granule loss, minor curling around edges and even small blisters may develop, all considered normal.
     7. Lack of Ventilation – Research has shown improperly vented attics or air space inhibits air movement and usually increases moisture content. Under these conditions, heat builds up and shortens the shingle life.

The big picture – When inspecting a roof, it wise to first look at the big picture. I step back far enough to get a clear view of the house and its roof. As I slowly walk around the house looking up at the roof, I make mental notes of anything unusual, such as unevenness, sags, dips, or obvious damage.

These observations will be worthy of a more focused look later, because dips or irregularities can be prone to leak. Obviously sags or unevenness could be an indication of a structural problem and will be investigated when inspecting the attic.
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****Please note this is a condensed article directed at informing about some basics of roofing, not educating about how to install roofs.

16 Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

6/30/2016

 
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You’ve purchased your first home… jumped through all the hoops and had lots of people tell you what to do and how to do it. They handed you the keys and left.
Now what? What they don’t tell you is that you will need a few tools to help with moving in and the future maintenance and repairs you will need to do to your home. Of course you will want to hire professionals to do the big stuff like plumbing repair or electrical work, etc. But there are those little things that you will need to do and CAN do like hanging pictures or other décor, or fixing those dings and bumps you made moving in.
Here is a handy list of some “get started” tools that are inexpensive but quite handy.

Tape Measure: A small but mighty tool. To make sure things actually fit where they’re supposed to fit. You’ll find yourself using this more than you might think.
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Duct Tape

This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it’s one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it is water-resistant and extremely sticky.
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​Pliers: One of the handiest tools any new homeowner could have in a toolkit. You’ll want needle-nose, flat-nose, and cutting pliers. While it may seem like a lot, each of the pliers have their own use.
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​Level:
An essential for hanging anything from a shelf to a picture frame. Hanging things evenly is nearly impossible without a level. Save yourself hours, and never hear “a little more to the left” ever again. The bubble in the viewfinder must be exactly in the middle -- not merely close.

​Electric Drill/Screwdriver: Not essential, but a worthy investment you’ll use time and time again. An electric screwdriver or drill will make your life much easier as a new homeowner, and your arms will thank you.

​Safety Glasses / Goggles
For all tasks involving a hammer or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals.
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Extension Cord: Because you think your cord can reach until you end up yanking it out every time. Save yourself a headache and get a long sturdy extension cord to make sure you (and your tools!) can reach anywhere you need to.
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Broom/Dust Pan: While not thought of as a traditional “tool” you’ll definitely need these to clean up after any project.
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Utility Knife: Perfect for slicing open all of those well-taped moving boxes. You might want a few of these, as they tend to get lost in the shuffle. Utility knives of varying sizes are useful for a plethora of home improvement projects.
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Hammer:
A hammer is essential for any homeowner — especially now that you are free to hang décor on your walls without worrying about losing your security deposit. Hammers are also useful for constructing new furniture and piecing together small projects.
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Wood Glue: Wood glue can fix all manner of bumps and bruises that happen to walls and furniture during moving. Secure with clamps.
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​Flashlight None of the tools in this list is of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem, and solution, are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient.
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Screwdriver Set: A screwdriver set with interchangeable heads of various sizes in both Philips and flat-head with one handle will do you well.
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​Nails and Screws: Keep a selection of nails and screws, from picturing hanging nails to wood screws. Having a few different types available will make projects much easier.

Stud Finder: If you want to hang anything heavier than poster, a stud finder is a must. A reasonable investment, you’ll only have to buy one once.
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Plunger A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most inconvenient household problems that you will face. It is best to have two plungers -- one for the sink and one for the toilet.

​Step Ladder: Standing on a chair is a great way to ensure you break the chair, or worse…yourself. Keep a step ladder around for everyday tasks like changing light bulbs or replacing fire alarm batteries.

Don’t forget…
About some way to organize your tools so that they are accessible for future uses. Most will fit in a handy inexpensive 5-gallon bucket or plastic tool box. Get a couple of hooks to mount on the wall in the garage or utility closet for your broom, dust pan and extension cord.

Are Home Inspections Worth It? - Price vs. Value

6/16/2016

 
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Are Home Inspections Worth It? - Price vs. Value
By Andrea Davis, HomeAdvisor.com
 
Home inspections are an important part of determining whether a home will need additional repairs or maintenance before it’s sold or bought. But are they always worth the investment? It depends on whether the benefits of home inspection outweigh the cost. This information will help you decide.
Why Get a Home Inspection?
Home inspections are used to provide an opportunity for a buyer or seller to identify any major issues with a home prior to closing. Realtors are also known to include home inspection clauses in some situations, such as new home construction.
What is Covered in a Home Inspection?
In new home construction, inspections generally cover:
  • Foundations: Checking before the concrete is poured (once poured there’s very little that can be corrected).
  • Pre-drywall: Checking the structure and mechanics before the drywall is laid.
  • Full inspection: A full inspection is performed of the completed home.
Home buyers and sellers may hire local inspectors to take an in-depth look through the home’s exterior and interior, checking:
  • Bathrooms: This room will be inspected for leaks, ventilation and any other major issues. An absence of windows or fans could indicate mold or mildew problems.
  • Electrical: An inspector will check your home’s wiring, testing how the outlets and GFCI perform to prevent any shocks or potential electrocutions. They will check your electrical panel to make sure it doesn’t present a fire hazard.
  • Foundation: While the inspector usually can’t look at the foundation (because it’s underground), he or she can identify secondary issues brought on by foundation problems, such as cracks or settling.
  • Grading: If your grading doesn’t slope away from the house like it should, the inspector will let you know. Moisture seeping into your home as a result of poor grading presents a danger to your foundation and the structure itself.
  • Garage or carport: The inspector will look at your garage door to make sure that it’s operating correctly and that it’s well-ventilated (prevents carbon monoxide poisoning in the garage).
  • Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC): An inspector will check your HVAC system to see that it functions correctly. Exposed ducts will be checked for leaks or asbestos.
  • Kitchen appliances: Inspectors may will sometimes check appliances to see whether they work. Ask ahead of time if these are covered in the inspection.
  • Laundry room: The inspector will make sure this room is well-ventilated and free of fire hazards.
  • Plumbing: The inspector will check plumbing, including all faucets, showerheads and visible pipes, for leaks. He or she will also test the water pressure and the state of the main water shutoff.
  • Roof: Inspectors will check the roof for any potential damage or leaks into your attic. He or she will also check the vents and gutters for damage.
  • Walls: The inspector will look at your siding and check for missing or damaged pieces, cracks, or signs of pests underneath.
What a Home Inspection Doesn’t Cover
Home inspections are limited. Even with an inspection, you may end up with undiscovered issues you’ll have to fix down the road. Home inspections only find the “visual cues” for problems. A foundation crack, slanted floors, doors that don’t properly close -- these are signs of bigger problems. However, problems without visual cues -- pests, radon, lead -- may crop up after the inspection. Some inspectors offer radon testing as an add-on; some will recommend asbestos testing services if your home appears to be at risk.
Some areas inspectors won’t look at include:
  • Inside walls (won’t cut open drywall or insulation)
  • Inside pipes or sewer lines
  • Inside chimneys
  • Behind electrical panels
An inspection is also:
  • Not the sole determinant for buying a house: Maybe you’re willing to make some renovations on the house with these problems. The inspection will help you determine exactly how many you’ll need to do.
  • Never free and clear of problems: An inspection will always find a problem with a home. Even new home constructions will have small issues that need to be addressed.
  • Not getting all the fixes done: No seller is going to fix everything for you. They may negotiate on some of them, but expecting resolution of all is unreasonable.
Is it Worth the Investment?
The cost will vary depending on a variety of factors. Ask ahead of time how an inspector charges. The average inspection will last three hours. Always accompany your inspector on an inspection, asking questions throughout the process.
Compare this cost against the value of the home inspection. If you’re a seller, an inspection will help you understand exactly where there are problems in your home that could make or break a sale (i.e., cost you a lot of time and money and keep your home on the market for longer than it should be). If you’re a buyer, this inspection is crucial to understanding how much money you may need to spend on a home after the sale. For new home construction, it’s an imperative part of the building and finishing process. Either way, addressing issues early through a home inspection can save you tens of thousands of dollars down the road.
The views reflected within are solely those of HomeAdvisor and their Authors.




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The “Done” List

6/1/2016

 
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Everyone can use a little encouragement from time to time. And a little accountability.

For the past few months, I’ve been feeling a little overwhelmed. I’ve struggled with some of my deadlines (which I never have in the past). I’ve had a hard time saying no.

Occasionally I think about all the “need to-dos” and “want to-dos” and “should dos” and wonder how the list got so big.

So, last week, instead of focusing just on my to-do list, I also did something I haven’t tried before. I made a “done” list.

Anything I did during that day — no matter how big or small — I added to the done list. At first, I thought I was being kind of silly … and maybe wasting time. But by the end of the day, I was a big fan of the done list.

Three really good things happened because of the done list.


First, by the end of the day, I had a record of everything I’d done.

Often, when I reach the end of the day, I wonder how much I really accomplished. (Sometimes — usually — it doesn’t feel like as much as I’d like.) With my done list in hand, I was able to review everything I’d achieved during the day.

And honestly, it was not insignificant. I could see that even though I hadn’t crossed a couple of bigger things off my to-do list, I’d made good progress and that they would be getting the coveted line through them soon.

That was a nice feeling.

The second thing I noticed is that when I was tempted to waste some time — surfing Facebook or playing WordTwist — I didn’t. Because I didn’t want to add it to the done list.

Instead, I did something else I’d feel good about seeing on my list at the end of the day. It wasn’t always work-related. At one point, when Facebook was calling my name, I opted to play the piano for 15 minutes instead. While I wouldn’t have liked seeing “Facebook — 15 minutes” on my done list, I did like seeing “Played the piano.”

And the third thing I noticed was that my momentum built throughout the day. Toward the end of the day when I’m usually looking at my to-do list and thinking, “What’s the point … I’ll just start fresh tomorrow,” I was thinking, “How much more can I add to my done list before I knock off at five?”

What a difference!


Now, I probably won’t use a done list every day. But if I’m feeling overwhelmed, discouraged, or unfocused, the done list is my new go-to tool.

I hope you’ll give it a try to see if it works as well for you!


by Heather Robson, blog writer for Wealthy web writer

Home Maintenance Checklist for the First Year

5/26/2016

 
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After buyers move in to their new home, they should be prepared for some home fixes to present themselves each season, says Rich Escallier, a handyman in Chicago. "If you can go six months without finding something that raises your blood pressure, you're lucky,” Escallier says. 
CBS MoneyWatch recently released a checklist of routine maintenance and small home repairs that home buyers should expect to do their first year to help avoid more costly problems from surfacing later on: 
During move-in week: Turn on all major appliances and run them for a complete cycle. Even if the buyer already completed a home inspection, they should test again, experts say. After all, “if you have a minor leak under the dishwasher, that water leaks into the subfloor and you can't see it," says Daniel Cipriani with Kade Homes & Renovations in the Atlanta area. "But you'll start to notice the hardwood floor buckling." 
45 days after move-in: Change the HVAC system filter and vacuum out the air intake vents. “Capturing dirt and dust with the right filter can go a long way toward preserving the new home appeal for a few years,” CBC MoneyWatch notes. 
Six months after move-in: Inspect the exterior of your home in both the summer and fall to ensure rainwater is draining away from the home properly. Also, clean out clogged gutters and downspouts. "Landscaping should be negatively graded away from the house," Cipriani says. "People don't think it's a big problem, but otherwise water pools against the foundation and doesn't have anywhere to go."
Every year: Inspect the home’s roof for any missing shingles and gaps around the chimneys. Also, check the ceilings inside the home for any water spots and indications of potential leaks. 
Experts also note that every two years, home owners would be wise to hire a professional HVAC contractor to inspect their furnace, air conditioner, and hot water heater. A ruptured reservoir could potentially spill 40 gallons of water in a mere few hours so experts recommend home owners install a water alarm with sensors in the collection pan underneath the hot water heater. The sensors cost about $25 and can help save home owners from costly water damage. 
Source: “Repairs Every New Homebuyer Should Make,” CBS MoneyWatch (Aug. 26, 2013)
Daily Real Estate News | Monday, October 07, 2013

Preparing for a Home Inspection

5/25/2016

 
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Having the property ready for an inspection can prevent unnecessary delays. For liability reasons, inspectors do not move personal property. Most inspectors will charge an additional fee if they return to the property to inspect items that were not accessible or if the utilities were off. 
 
The buyer/seller should confirm that:
  • All utilities (electric, water, gas) are on
  • All pilot lights are lit
  • All locks are removed or unlocked from areas that may prohibit inspector accessibility such as attics, doors, etc.
  • Attic access is clear
  • Crawl space (if provided) access is clear
  • Electrical panels are accessible and not locked
  • Water heater is accessible
  • Furnace is accessible
  • Cooling system is accessible
  • Built-in kitchen appliances are accessible and ready to operate
  • Pets are secure
 
“Seller shall permit Buyer and Buyer’s agents access to the Property at reasonable times. Buyer may have the Property inspected by inspectors selected by Buyer and licensed by TREC or otherwise permitted by law to make inspections. Seller at Seller’s expense shall turn on existing utilities for inspections”. (Excerpt from Paragraph 7A of the TREC One to Four Family Residential Contract No. 20-7)
Schedule an inspection: www.entechinspections.com

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